【溏心风暴】干鲍的溏心秘密
The Sweet Secrets of Dried Abalone
世界上最会吃鲍鱼的是香港人，因为香港的杨贯一，开创并引领了吃鲍鱼的风潮。全球生产的鲍鱼有一半都运到了香港，即便如此香港的鲍鱼依旧供不应求。港片《溏心风暴》曾经火遍大江南北，讲的便是“唐记干鲍”的故事。
Abalones are most popular among people in Hong Kong. Half of the Abalone produced in the world is shipped to Hong Kong. Even so, Abalone in Hong Kong is still short in supply.
香港流传着一句话：“存干鲍比存黄金更保值”。因为黄金可能会贬值，但干鲍的价格却一直在攀升，尤其是日本干鲍，近几年价格已经翻番。 2008年亚洲金融危机时，杨贯一和他的徒弟们的资产不但没有贬值，反而升值了，就是因为他们收藏了很多顶级干鲍。现在的香港，顶级五头网鲍的价格为每斤5.2万元，三头网鲍的价格为每斤8.6万元。
There is a saying in Hong Kong: “It is better to keep Abalone than to keep gold.” Because gold may depreciate, but the prices of dried Abalone has been rising. Especially in Japan, the price has doubled in recent years. During the Asia financial crisis in 2008, the asset of Yeung Koon Yat (Hong Kong’s International chef and ambassador of Chinese cuisine) and his apprentices not only did not depreciate, but appreciated, because they collected a lot of top dried Abalone.
不同品种、品相、头数的鲍鱼价格差距较大。在国内吃到的干鲍，最贵的是日本鲍，便宜些的是南非鲍、澳洲鲍。国产的鲍鱼也做成干鲍，但大多都是小干鲍，因为国内不产大鲍，优质的大干鲍，几乎都要靠国外进口。
There is a big gap in the price of Abalone of different species, appearance, and its weight. Of the dried Abalone consumed in China, the most expensive one is Japanese Abalone, and the cheaper ones are South African Abalone and Australian Abalone. China produced mostly small Dried Abalones, because large Abalones are not produced in China, and high-quality dried Abalones mostly rely on imports.
鲍鱼属于“娇贵”的水产品，对环境和饵料要求高，养殖难度大，养殖周期长，一不小心就“死给你看”。优质的鲍鱼，大多生长在较高纬度的冷水环境的海底，生长速度慢，每年只能长1-2cm。鲍鱼长到4岁之后，生长更加缓慢，所以大部分养殖场不会养超过4岁的鲍鱼，因此即使是大规格的鲜鲍，价格也不算便宜。野生的大鲍鱼，由于国内海洋环境的破坏，几乎不可见。
Abalone is a “precious” aquatic product, which has high requirements on the environment and bait, they are difficult to breed, and has a long breeding period. High quality fresh Abalones grow on the bottom of cold-water environment at higher latitudes, with a slow growth rate, only grow 1-2cm per year. After Abalone grows to 4 years old, it grows even more slowly, so most farms will not raise Abalone older than 4 years old, so for a large-size fresh Abalone, it is very expensive. Wild large Abalone are almost impossible to find due to the destruction of the marine environment in China.
一只鲜鲍做成干鲍，重量会缩水至原来的十分之一，好比从一颗西瓜变成一颗橙子。因此只有足够大的鲍鱼才能做成干鲍。足够大的鲍鱼，成本就可想而知了。在日本岩手县，水质清澈，海浪平和，能出产上好优质鲍鱼。因此，岩手县出产顶级干鲍，也出了好几家干鲍家族。制作干鲍的秘技，世界各地无人能及，究其原因，是天时地利人和三方面配合而成。
When a fresh Abalone is made into a dried Abalone, its weight will shrink to one-tenth of its original weight, which is like transformation from a watermelon to an orange. Therefore, only large enough fresh Abalone can be made into dried Abalone. In Iwate, Japan, the water is clear, waves are calm, and that’s where good quality Abalone can be produced. Therefore, Iwate produces top-quality dried Abalone, and several other dried Abalone families have been produced. No one in the world can match the secret technique of making dried Abalone in Iwate, Japan.
很多人都在讲溏心鲍。什么是溏心？溏心是怎么形成的？
The soft yolk of Dried Abalones is widely known, but what are they?
鲍鱼的溏心，是指干鲍中心部分呈现的软软黏黏的半液体状态。切一小块溏心鲍放进嘴里，口感柔滑有韧度，溏心部分触感似软糖，咀嚼时有些许粘牙，随之而来的是浓郁鲜甜的鲍鱼香气。张大千形容的“吃鲍鱼圆心，嫩似溶浆，晶莹凝脂，色同琥珀”，就是“溏心鲍鱼”的最高境界。
The soft yolk of dried Abalone refers to the soft, viscous, semi-liquid state in the center of dried Abalone. The taste Is smooth, texture resembles soft candy, smell of Abalone is fragrant and sweet. Abalone with round center, tender like melted pulp, crystal clear, and the color is as amber. This is the highest state of soft yolk dried Abalone.
鲍鱼的溏心是技艺高超的干鲍制作工艺，在阳光的作用下自然形成的。在干鲍制作过程中，煮好的鲍鱼，还要经「过火」步骤，就是在炭火上烘焙至五成干，减少当中水分，这步骤要讲火候精准，稍有过火，塘心不成，如何恰到好处，全赖师傅经验。
Soft yolk dried Abalone is the achievement of superb craftsmanship for dried Abalone production, which is naturally formed under the influence of sunlight. In the process of making dried Abalone, the cooked Abalone must go through a process call “over fire”, which is to bake on charcoal fire to 50% dryness to reduce the moisture. This step needs to be very precise, and it requires an experienced master to accomplish.
过完火后，再要用针和绳将之串起，吊在竹架下晾晒，让鲍鱼收干。日本岩手县得天独厚，太阳温和不猛烈，是晒制的理想场地。但长期暴晒会破坏鲍鱼质感，故只早上直晒，正午要用布遮着，若早上阳光太猛，亦要以布遮光。晒场的师傅，就是以炭烘和日晒这两个步骤，来逼出鲍鱼的塘心，其中轻重拿捏，到目前为止还是高度机密。
After the “over fire” process, Abalone are string with needles and ropes, hang under a bamboo frame, and let the Abalone dry. Iwate, Japan is a unique location with mild sunlight, making it an ideal place for drying Abalone. However, long-term exposure will damage its texture, so it should be directly exposed to sunlight in the morning and covered with cloth at noon. If the sun is too strong in the morning, cloth is used to block the sun. The master of drying yard uses the two steps of charcoal baking the sun drying.
从鲜鲍到干鲍如此繁琐，发制干鲍更是繁琐。一只八头大小的干鲍需要清水浸泡2-3天，一天得更换清水2-3次，个头越大需要浸泡的时间越长。如果浸泡时间太短，鲍鱼没有足够吸水，会像石头一般坚硬；如果浸泡时间太长，鲍鱼吸水过多，口感就会太软，破坏该有的溏心特质。
The process from fresh Abalone to dried Abalone is not easy, but prepping dried Abalone is even more complicated. The weight of eight-headed dried Abalone needs to be soaked in water for 2-3 days, and the water needs to be changed 2-3 times a day. The larger the size, the longer it needs to be soaked. If the soaking time is too short, the Abalone will not absorb enough water and texture will be hard like a rock; if the soaking time is too long, the Abalone will absorb too much water, and the texture will be too soft, destroying the desirable characteristics of the Abalone.
干鲍吃起来也颇有讲究，最好沿着肌肉纹路直着切，这样吃起来比较滑嫩，和切牛排是一个道理。对于又贵又稀缺的溏心干鲍，虽然麻烦重重，可但凡吃过干鲍的人，都不会忘记溏心在口中化开的美妙感受。溏心鲍的味道是鲜鲍永远无法比拟的。因为溏心干鲍是渔人智慧的结晶，是凝聚着阳光、时间和匠心的佳作。
It is very particular when it comes to consuming dried Abalone, it is best to cut straight along the muscle lines, so that the texture is smoother and tender, which is the same as cutting steak. For the expensive and scarce dry Abalone, although the preparation process is complicated, but it is an unforgettable experience for anyone who has tasted dried Abalone in their mouth. The taste of soft yolk Abalone is unmatched to fresh Abalone. Because the dry Abalone is truly the crystallization of fisherman’s wisdom, it is a masterpiece of sunshine, time, and ingenuity.
本店声明：以上内容为营养科普知识，仅供消费者参考学习，相关内容不代表产品功效，请消费者理性消费，本产品不能代替药品。
Please Note: The above content is only for consumers’ reference. The content does not represent the efficacy of the product. Consumers should consume these products rationally. This product cannot replace medicines.
德成行（tsEMPORIUM.com）始于1979年，是美洲最大参茸药食商城，美洲第一滋补养生品牌。40多年来坚持为每位顾客提供物超所值的美国花旗参、冬虫夏草、金丝燕窝以及最全品类的中药和滋补品，让每个人都能轻松受益更健康的生活。
T S EMPORIUM ( www.tsEMPORIUM.com) – established in 1979, we are the largest purveyor of American Ginseng and Traditional Chinese Medicine in the Americas and the No. 1 Chinese nutritional goods brand in the Americas. Since 1979, we have insisted on providing every customer with “Excellent Value” for American Ginseng, Cordyceps, Golden Swiftlets’ Nests, and the most comprehensive line of Traditional Chinese Medicine, so that everyone can easily benefit from a healthier life!
The above content is provided as general knowledge by T S EMPORIUM but with the articles comprehensively compiled from various reputable sources. We sincerely hope it is useful to you and you will continue to read these helpful contents from our emails and on our website.
赞 (5)